Yatra with Swamiji

India February 12 – March 7

By Lilavati with Devi Ma

 

The heart is the most sacred of all places, go there and roam.

Bhagawan Nityananda

Day One: Arriving in Ganeshpuri

It seems impossible – sixty Shiva yogis, including Ashramites and householders, all leaving for India with Swamiji and Devi Ma. But, as we stand at Tullamarine Airport clutching our bags filled with Indian outfits and gastro-kits, it is coming true!

We are embarking on a yatra (pilgrimage); two weeks in Ganeshpuri where Bhagawan Nityananda and Baba Muktananda lived, taught and took mahasamadhi (died) and where Swamiji spent many formative years of his sadhana in the early 1970s. After Ganeshpuri, a smaller group plans to head north for a week in Kankhal near Haridwar, the land of Shiva, where Swamiji first learnt yoga. A formal ceremony into an Akhada, a spiritual organisation of Indian saints and swamis, will recognise Swamiji as a Mahant, a great soul and spiritual leader. It is rare for western Swamis to be given this title and acknowledged in this way.

However, the undoubted highlight of the trip is the dusty town of Ganeshpuri, a small village seventy kilometres north-east of Mumbai which, as Swamiji says, “is one of the greatest and most powerful spiritual places in the world”.

Ganeshpuri is nestled in a valley, surrounded by beautiful hills, farms, brick factories and the river Tansa from which natural hot sulphur springs ease the body and spirit. Legend says that Lord Ram and Sita visited there on their way to do austerities in the jungle, that the exiled Pandavas built ancient temples here, and that the great sage Vasishtha performed rituals and a fire ceremony, to which many gods and sages came.

Possibly for those reasons, Ganeshpuri was home to Bhagawan Nityananda from 1936 until 1961. Back then it was jungle with only a small temple, believed to have been built over 800 years ago, of Bhimeshwar Mahadev, Shiva in the form of a lingam. Word spread of a mysterious naked sage and people came for darshan, to meet him. His spiritual radiance and power was soon obvious and before long devotees built him a small hut and later a road leading to it. Locals say that Bhagawan was also drawn to the hot springs, which soothed his arthritis. Every morning he took a hot bath after which devotees brought him coffee. Ganeshpuri is now as famous for the strong spiritual presence of Bhagawan as it is for his disciple Baba Muktananda.

Baba Muktananda received shaktipat, the spiritual awakening, from Bhagawan in 1947. After nine years of sadhana, Bhagawan told Baba to move to a hut a kilometre up the road. Devotees were attracted to Baba also and an ashram grew up around him. He named it Gurudev Siddha Peeth, which means seat of my Siddha Guru. The years passed and a township grew as adivasis, the indigenous people of the area, Bombay devotees and westerners became devoted to Bhagawan and Baba. Devotees still tend to the Samadhi Shrine and Gurudev Siddha Peeth with great love.

Swamiji considers Ganeshpuri to be the heartland of our tradition and the trip is a long awaited one for many of us. It is the culmination of enormous hard work by Vani, Bindu, Ishwari, ashramites, householders and our ‘man on the ground’, Iqbal Memmon and his family.
 

A new freeway and relatively few traffic jams means that we soon turn off the main road, down increasingly smaller roads into more rural country, and towards Ganeshpuri.

Around a corner, in the soft green and brown landscape is the large white façade of Baba’s ashram. Down a dusty road with shops selling garlands and big green watermelons, around a few precipitous bends, past the cows and goats foraging in the streets and there, rising on the right, is the spire of Bhagawan Nityananda’s beautiful Samadhi Shrine.

We turn left through arches that read “wel” and “come” to Kothavala Hot Springs and Resort. And welcomed we are! Swamiji and Devi Ma have arrived shortly before us and as Percy and Anoo Kothavala greet us, fireworks explode and music blares from loudspeakers.

On the front of a large mandap (tent) with multi-coloured decorations is a sign reading ‘Shiva Ashram’ with a photograph of our Australian home. We sit down to a delicious Indian feast and then, without a pause, Swamiji sweep us up and leads us down the Kothavala path to the spiritual heart of our tradition and Ganeshpuri – Bhagawan Nityananda’s Samadhi Shrine and temple.

The Samadhi is the site of Nityananda’s original hut and now holds his remains. He is resting in the traditional manner of saints, under a magnificent gold-plated statue (murti) and an enormous silver canopy, now covered in marigolds, gladiolas, jasmine, mango leaves and chrysanthemums in honour of an upcoming festival. The artist has captured Bhagawan’s strength and power. His pose commands attention. His left knee is raised and his left hand rests lightly on it, fingers extended fully. Baba used to comment that Bhagawan’s fingers were never bent, a sign that he was completely free from attachment to material things. His right knee is folded underneath and his right arm hangs comfortably by his side. He is radiant and beautiful. It is obvious he is adored and cared for by the temple priests and men and women of the village.

Swamiji is welcomed by the trustees and priests who invite him into the inner enclosure of the shrine to garland the statue as we chant the Nityananda Arati, the waving of lights and worship of Bhagawan. It is intensely moving.

After settling into our various rooms we meet again at the Samadhi for evening arati, a theatrical event of the highest spiritual order. The hall is filled with devotees waiting for a glimpse of Bhagawan who continues to bestow Grace and blessings on the villagers and the surrounding valley.

Capturing the attention of the gods is no easy matter. Arati begins with the loud beating of an enormous drum and the clanging of a huge bell vibrates the room and all of us. It is heard throughout the whole valley. It seems impossible for the deities, the devotees or Bhagawan to ignore this call. At a significant moment two men in orange satin turbans, jackets and pants holding staffs, draw back lilac velvet curtains that cover our view of the murti. With the gold Bhagawan now fully revealed and shining with the light of Shakti, the priest’s flamboyant waving of lights completes the drama. Finally the clamour stops and we sing arati. We offer garlands, take prasad and walk out the back entrance to dogs, children and devotees milling around. We laugh as Swamiji comments that the charisma of the priest reminds him of Freddy Mercury from the rock band Queen.

Later, sitting on the pretty balcony of ‘Rosy’s Ganeshpuri Bed and Breakfast’, I feel both exhausted and perfectly contented. The Shakti of Ganeshpuri has cast its magic.

Day Two: Ganeshpuri Walks and Meeting Potia

At 4:30am I awake in the warm darkness of the night to the sounds of the Bhagawan arati in the distance. A short time later I hear the Guru Gita chant at Gurudev Siddha Peeth at the other end of Ganeshpuri Township. Lying in bed absorbed in the sounds vibrating around me I think, ‘What an extraordinary place this is’.

After an Indian breakfast we meet for the first orientation meeting and a surprise presentation of saris to the woman in our group by Swamiji and Devi Ma. Men’s outfits will come later.

Swamiji wants to visit Baba’s samadhi and invites a few of us along. For most, this will be their first visit to Gurudev Siddha Peeth and the fulfilment of a long-held dream. We are dropped off out front and walk through the outer courtyard. Devi Ma laughs as she recalls how, in 1978, she, “scrubbed this courtyard on her hands and knees and was in total bliss”. The courtyard leads to the original meditation hall where Baba had installed a bronze statue of Bhagawan sitting in a pose he loved.

In the early 70s, before a hundred devotees grew into thousands, the Guru Gita was chanted here every morning. At the far end is an etched copper plaque of the whole text. Now there is a large hall in the inner courtyard where programmes are held. Swamiji bows to the statue, takes blessed water from the priest, bows to Gurumayi’s seat and then sits quietly to meditate. This is the hall where he was monitor and where many of his sadhana experiences happened. Afterwards he shares how, in the mornings during his Ganeshpuri days, he watched the sun rise and move across the windows of the hall, lighting up the mountains of the east as he chanted the Guru Gita.

After enjoying the meditative peace of the ashram, we walk back along the road into the township of Ganeshpuri. We surprise one of our wonderful hosts, Rosy, at her guest-house (where I am staying with a few others) and, despite her shock at suddenly seeing Swamiji, her sweetness to him and Devi Ma is evident.

We then walk to Yogini’s, our other loving host, where others are staying. Although startled by our visit, Yogini soon appears with puja items. She waves a light to Swamiji, sings a short arati and, with a decisive shout of “Sadgurnath Maharaj ki Jay!” throws a coconut to the ground (which splatters perfectly everywhere) before giving us all sweets. Finally, we are able to leave on Yogini’s condition, “Guruji, allow me to bring you chai, Indian tea and snacks, one afternoon.”

We continue our ecstatic walk through town. Swamiji greets the shopkeepers and locals with love and they respond in kind with smiles, waves and giggles. Finally we reach ‘Kailas Nivas’, Shiva’s dwelling, where Bhagawan lived and taught. A place of immense Shakti, his transcendent presence is in every one of the beautiful rooms and concrete perches where he used to sit. His chair, with arms that functioned as leg rests and which is depicted in many photos, is still there. Old photographs of him line the walls of the hall and other rooms and bring this most ‘impersonal’ of beings to life.

We return to Kothavala and, as we shared our adventure with Percy, he tells us that his father was Nityananda’s doctor. His father had made the chair for Bhagawan and there is an exact replica of it in Percy’s lounge room. The two men were friends and spent many afternoons chatting underneath a beautiful ancient banyan tree in the front garden.

A few minutes later we are surprised by the visit of Potia, a now elderly man who drove Baba’s car for 12 years and also taught Swamiji how to drum. Potia now works at the temple handing out water to the poor on the streets. He has heard that Swamiji is in town and has come to see his old student. Their meeting is emotional and sweet. As they chat, Swamiji tells us how, one afternoon, Baba suddenly turned to him and asked if he wanted to learn to drum. Swamiji said “Yes” and Potia was promptly assigned to him as his drum guru.

Sitting on the porch at Kothavala, Potia plays his signature chant, Hare Ram, which he had played every night for Baba in Satsang. Moved by the memory of his time with Potia, Swamiji jumps up and sits down across from him and begins to drum with him, student and teacher reunited. Moved to tears by this reunion, Swamiji ends the chant with a promise from Potia that he will return in the evening to play for us.

Some of us then head for the mandap, which doubles as a dining hall and a shop that Iqbal and his family has set up for our convenience to buy India essentials - saris, shawls, asanas, oils and punjabis. An extravagant Indian lunch follows and we then rest. After a long, hot, mineral spring bath at Kothavala’s late in the afternoon I write an SMS to my friend Jason saying, “I have fallen in love with India – come and join me!”

In the early evening Potia returns and we gather on the balcony. It is a balmy night and, as the sound of Hare Ram builds into devotional sweetness, the mystery of Ganeshpuri seeps into the chant. Swamiji whispers, “I cannot believe I am sitting near my beloved Mandagni Mountain, in Ganeshpuri, at the feet of my Gurus”. The mountain is a reminder of his years as a young sadhaka and his days with Baba. As the sun set behind us, it seems a perfect way to end the second day.

Day Three: In Bhagawan’s Belly

The day starts at 4:00am for many Shiva yogis who head to the temple for abhishek, Bhagawan’s morning bath. The statue is showered with milk, sandalwood oil, yoghurt and hot water. The priests dress him in silk and wool and perform the arati.

It is a little strange to watch Bhagawan being dressed in such finery. Every photograph shows him naked or dressed only in a loincloth. This ritual is not something they could have done while he was alive. But now, his presence fills the whole valley and his cosmic Self raises no objection to their worship.

As I sit watching the abhishek I have the extraordinary feeling that Bhagawan is communicating with me. He seems to be amused and keeps winking and smiling at me. It is a strange and very delightful experience – all the more so as statues at the art gallery don’t generally talk to me! I conclude that the energy of Bhagawan has permeated his sculpture and that he is fully alive.

By 7:00am most of us have assembled at Kailas Nivas to meditate with Swamiji. I find it incredible that we are sitting in the place where Bhagawan lived and taught. The intense peace of the hall is shattered only by a man suddenly ringing a bell to rouse Ganesh. Gradually, the town too begins to ‘wake up’ and from outside we hear chanting, cows passing and people chattering. Back home the sounds might be annoying, but here they are part of the fabric of meditation and worship.

After meditation, an old friend of Swamiji’s from his ashram days, Swami Chidananda, shows us around. We see the upstairs roof where Bhagawan took exercise and other rooms where he lived, slept and meditated. Swami Chidananda walks us across the road to Bangalorewala, a small hospital where Bhagawan lived his final days and took mahasamadhi (died) on August 8^th 1961 at 10:43AM. We are led up narrow stairs to a small cosy meditation room where people are sitting, and to the room where he left his body. Swamiji says later that he felt it was the purest feeling of Bhagawan’s essence.

We walk back to the temple for an extraordinary experience. It is auspicious that our visit coincides with the eve of Shivaratri, the holy day when Lord Shiva is remembered and honoured. It is even more auspicious that this day is the only day of the year when devotees are allowed to enter the ‘inner sanctum’ and stroke or bow to Bhagawan. We line up with hundreds of others with offerings of rupees, garlands, cloth and jewellery. Their joy is contagious. As we move single file around the statue, everyone places their foreheads on Bhagawan’s feet or lovingly stroke his legs, arms and hands. Many reverently touch his face. As I touch my head to his feet, my mind stops and a deep and profound peace fills me.

After breakfast Swamiji tells us, “Normally we live in Mt Eliza. The ashram is like an island in the midst of the Kali Yuga, the Dark Age. However, here in Ganeshpuri, we are in the Satya Yuga, the Golden Age, where everything and everyone is ‘contained in Bhagawan’s belly.” 

“I tell people in my Learn to Meditate course that we live in two worlds, the inner world of thought and feeling and the outer world of people and objects. But here, in Ganeshpuri, there is no outer world. Everyone is a devotee and loves God. Even though there may be trouble and petty behaviour it is all taking place in the context of the yogic ecstasy and devotion of Bhagawan.”

After another great breakfast we have a few hours to shop and most of the women go to the tailors to be measured for cholis, blouses for saris, for Shivaratri. Apart from the retail pleasures of the local shops, buying malas and shawls, walking around gives us the chance to interact with the people who serve Bhagawan with such devotion.

In the early evening we all gather for the arrival of Swami Chetanananda and his assistant, Leiko. Swami Chetanananda is Swamiji’s Guru-brother from the Nityananda Institute in Portland. Swami Chetanananda has been at his ashram in Kathmandu, Nepal and has made a long trek to be with us in Ganeshpuri for a few days. Swamiji greets them with garlands and much love. We are touched when Swami Chetanananda describes Ganeshpuri as the, “holiest of pilgrimages that is only surpassed by the greatest of all pilgrimages – that to the heart.”

That night we sit on the lawns of Kothavala, under the warm black sky and gently swaying palm trees, and chant to Potia’s drumming and Gopi’s magical harmonium playing. It is our second Satsang and some villagers tentatively wander in for darshan. Swamiji is happy to see Rosy, her husband Vijay and Yogini. We end Satsang in time to take darshan of Bhagawan.

Day Four: Gururatri and Shivaratri

Preparations for Gururatri, a festival that honours Bhagawan as the Sadguru, and Shivaratri are in full swing in the town. At the invitation of the temple priests, we join Swamiji in the three day, continuous dancing saptah and chant in a small stone room behind the temple. The Shakti vibrates as we chant ecstatically and dance while circling a small altar to Bhagawan.

Early in the morning, as I dance barefoot on the ancient stone floors around the picture of Bhagawan, I feel like the wheel of samsara, karma, is turning. After only a few minutes my mind stops and, after a few more minutes, the bliss of Bhagawan takes over completely. A man, caught up in a divine mood, leaps around the room ringing hand-held temple bells and shouting Bhagawan’s name. At 7:00am we again meet at Kailas Nivas to meditate.

At breakfast Swamiji talks about our busy days. He chuckles and says, ”Before we left Australia people asked, ‘Won’t you be bored there? Ganeshpuri is just a village in the middle of nowhere with nothing to do!’ On the contrary, there is no need to make up programs here; this whole place, every minute, is a meditation program.”

And it is true. There is something happening every moment in Ganeshpuri. As soon as one event ends, another happens. I move constantly from one Shakti experience to another. The practice of yoga here is natural and integrated fully into life in a way that most of us have not experienced before. 

The preparations continue throughout the day. We take shifts at the saptah. In the afternoon, as part of our celebration of Shivaratri, Iqbal arranges for us to visit surrounding villages to distribute prasad (gifts) in honour of Shivaratri.

As evening approaches, the town prepares for Gururatri. A spirited chant in the temple accompanies Bhagawan’s photograph and other sacred objects, which are placed on an elaborate palanquin which is then hoisted onto the shoulders of several men. Escorted by the two temple guards wearing their bright orange silk outfits and turbans, the procession leaves the temple and moves through the courtyard. Following behind are a group of devotees who sing Bhagawan chants and ring temple bells.

As the procession slowly passes the local shops, people perform arati; lights are waved and we are offered prasad. Slowly we make our way through the town to cries of “Sadgurnath Maharaj ki jay! Bhagawan ki jay!” We chant continuously and, as the hours go by and we pay homage to the town and the people who love Bhagawan, the bliss builds in me. Eventually we return to the temple grounds and circumnavigate the area; past the small shrine to Krishna and the stone room next to it with the dancing saptah still in progress; around the sulphur hot springs and the ancient Bhimeshwar temple; and finally up the stairs into Bhagawan’s shrine for a final arati.

Day Five: Shivaratri

Life and death seem very close in India, and along with the bliss of the spiritual comes the inevitable problems of the body. Many are laid low today with gastro and almost everyone says that they feel as though a ‘purification’ of some hideous sort is about to happen. For those who can, there is meditation at Kailas Nivas, a walk to the temple for arati or the dancing saptah.

The village has never before enjoyed the company of so many western devotees living here. All of us are blissful from the powerful Shakti that is released from this holy coming together. Many of the villagers tell us how much they appreciate our visit, the ecstatic nightly Satsangs, the spirit of generosity of their western Guru-brothers and sisters and the economic boom that floods the village. In turn, we are ecstatic from their gracious acceptance and hospitality. Westerners and Indians have come together joyfully under the wise and noble spirit of Bhagawan.

On the way back from meditation to Kothavala, Swami Chetanananda and Swamiji stop to give biscuits to a group of poor people sitting by the side of the road. There is much excitement as children and the homeless gather around for a blessing, as well as food. We eat breakfast and disperse for a while – some to rest, some to shop and some return to the saptah.

At 12:00 we gather in the garden to meet Vaishali, a local schoolteacher who has brought her students to meet Swamiji. They have prepared some chants and songs for him. Swamiji then gives out biscuits and some baseball caps.

Today is Shivaratri – the biggest event on India’s spiritual calendar. There is even more excitement and Shakti in the air. Dressed in our new clothes for the occasion, Godavari and I happily catch a tonga (a donkey drawn-cart) into town – much to the amusement of the locals who wonder at two Australians dressed in orange and purple saris!

We attend Satsang under the night sky, in the gardens, with Potia on drums and with many special guests. After a short talk by Surya Dev on the meaning of Shivaratri, talks by both Swamiji and Swami Chetanananda, we go into town for the last of the chanting at the temple, the end of the saptah and the palanquin’s return, through the village, from Gurudev Siddha Peeth.

Day Six: Gurudev Siddha Peeth

After last night’s epic events, today has been designated a ‘rest day’. Despite this, many of us rise at 5:15am to walk to Gurudev Siddha Peeth for the Guru Gita. 

I am very moved to finally pass through the gates and enter the courtyard where Baba had sat on his perch. In the half light it seems a truly magical place, resonating strongly with his presence. Gurumayi’s loving care for her Guru’s home is evident. The serenity and beauty of the gardens seem like heaven. We have all heard so much from Swamiji about his days in the ashram with his beloved teacher that I am overwhelmed to finally be here. Some of the pilgrims are ‘old timers’ who come with treasured memories of sadhana (spiritual practice) done here. The chanting is angelic, and Gurumayi’s devotees welcome us with a lot of love.

After breakfast we go our separate ways, but come back to Kothavala at lunch to farewell Swami Chetanananda and Leiko who are returning to Nepal today. 

Before leaving Mount Eliza, Swamiji had asked a number of people to prepare short talks on different aspects of spirituality, including the history of Ganeshpuri, Bhagawan Nityananda, the Maharashtran saints and poets, Shankaracharya and other pertinent topics. At this evening’s Satsang, there is the first “Shiva Symposium” talk in Ganeshpuri. Rajendra, an American devotee and friend, gives a fascinating talk on the poet saint, Jnaneshwar, much loved by Baba who said that the saint’s Samadhi shrine was one of the most spiritually charged places he had ever visited. 

Swamiji then notes that today is 36 years since he met Baba. In celebration, he chooses the first questions in ‘Satsang with Baba’. These questions are from a session that took place only six months after Swamiji met Baba in 1971. As a preamble, Swamiji shares how Baba lived, telling us that he gave himself freely to everyone. At 10:00am every day Baba would come out to his courtyard to meet people, read mail and handle ashram business. He did the same in the afternoon. Swamiji says, “The more we give, the more we get is the law of spirituality. There is no depletion, only expansion”.

Swamiji ends by teaching, “the Shakti of Ganeshpuri is perfect for increasing sadhana and bringing all tendencies (good and bad) to the surface in a way that moves us towards the essential peace that is always our inherent nature”.

With illness sweeping through our ranks it is a timely message. Our meditation that night is punctuated by the drums and bells of the evening arati at the temple which is only 100 metres away. After we join the arati, Swamiji meets briefly with Swami Sadananda, a local saint and disciple of Bhagawan, who lives on a nearby mountain behind the village.

Day Seven: Baba Muktananada’s Mahasamadhi Shrine

Today is a week since we arrived and, in the best possible way, I feel as if seven lifetimes have passed. My mother calls to say she is trying to find where I am on a map and, with all honesty, I say, “I don’t think this place really exists.” I don’t know if that reassures her, but it seems true to me!

Iqbal is determined to get Swamiji as close as he can to Mandagni Mountain and so, at 10:30am, those who are well pile into cars and head for a reservoir which has a magnificent view of Mandagni. The water is as serene as the mountain, even though Baba once told Swamiji mother, “Celibate cobras live there!”

After we sit quietly for awhile, we give out biscuits to thirty children. On our way back, we stop off at a temple to Hanuman, the powerful and mischievous monkey God who was the servant and protector of Lord Ram. The Brahmin priest clearly enjoys our visit; we spontaneously chant Sri Ram Jay Ram as he performs an impromptu arati and distributes prasad.

After lunch and the obligatory rest in the hottest part of the day, we prepare for a long-awaited pilgrimage to Baba’s samadhi shrine.

Before his last tour, Baba had given instructions that his original house, the room Bhagawan had built for him and in which he had lived for 12 years, should be torn down so that his samadhi could be made there. Today, the inner walls have been removed; the old walls and floor covered in marble and a square marble shrine built in the middle. The room is simply adorned with only a beautiful garland across the shrine and a large photograph of Baba on the rear wall. A pair of his sandals, now silver-plated, are reminders of the great soul whose teachings, love and Shakti spread around the world like a bushfire.

After we bow to the sandals and walk around the shrine, we sit to meditate for 10 minutes. Later, some report feeling Baba’s presence; some received teachings and messages while others were emotional and wept tears of joy and sorrow. Between us, there is a mood similar to the feeling of a family reuniting after separation; responsibilities, karma and necessity separate us from each other, yet, when we meet, there is understanding, love and acceptance. Some say the Shakti is similar to, though different from, Bhagawan’s.

A few hours later we meet for our nightly Satsang in the cooler evening hours. Potia leads us in a rousing Hare Ram and Stephen gives a talk on the spiritual history of Ganeshpuri and Maharashtra State, which locates us geographically. Swamiji is delighted to see Madhu and Dilip, boys he knew from his Ganeshpuri days, who are now grown men with families. They both still live in the village and have heard we were holding Satsangs. They bring photographs of their early days with Baba to show Swamiji, which he gleefully holds up for us all to see. The day ends with arati, a beautiful ending of our days here.

Day Eight: Abhishek of Bhagawan

This morning is a particularly special day. A few days ago the trustees approached Swamiji with a request that five of us take part in the abhishek, Bhagawan’s morning bath. At 4:15am we assemble at the temple. Kali Noelle, Chandana, Michael Pickens and Maria and Alan Soyman, will represent us and assist the Brahmins as they perform their morning ritual. It is a great honour.

The women are dressed in their finest saris, or punjabi outfits. Alan has gone through a pre-abhishek ceremony to make him a temporary Brahmin priest. He is dressed in a red silk dhoti, a long piece of cloth wrapped to appear as pants, and a silver thread, sign of a Brahmin. After a moment of understandable self-consciousness Alan takes to his role like a natural born Hindu.

Over the next two hours they participate in a ceremony that touches the core of Hinduism. Bhagawan Nityananda may - to all outward appearances - be a statue cast in gold, but for the priests, devotees and us, he is completely real, fully alive. It makes sense therefore that as the curtain is drawn back in the early morning he is dressed in a night shawl. His clothes are removed (except for a loin cloth) and then he is lovingly bathed. Yoghurt, milk, banana, orange and sandalwood, admittedly unusual ingredients for a bath, are poured over him. The offerings acknowledge and honour the Guru in a way that is natural and immediate. 

During his life devotees brought offerings on a daily basis. There are many photographs of Bhagawan, lying on his side, his face to the wall, with coconuts, bananas, flowers, garlands, clothing, rupees and other gifts piled around him. Sometimes he gave them back to devotees immediately, and sometimes he left them to rot. Sometimes he allowed his attendants to distribute them and sometimes he yelled at them when they tried. This great sage of Ganeshpuri will, I think, remain a mystery forever.

It is customary to give selflessly to the Guru and today the Brahmins hold back nothing. He is lovingly washed, dried, dressed and worshiped accordingly. Swamiji later quips, “I must have been in India too long, I swear he winked at me” and in all honesty it is easy to believe that the statue is alive. It has a power and humour that is animated both through the energy of Bhagawan’s presence in that place and through the love through which he is cared for and served.

Plans are laid after breakfast for the next day’s major yagna (or fire) ceremony and the group disperses to rest and shop. We meet in the evening for Satsang and hear a talk by Utpal on the great Saint of Maharashtra, Sai Baba of Shirdi. Swamiji also gives a terrific talk about ‘Ganeshpuri days’ in which he comments on the teachings of Baba from the days he spent with him in the 1970s. 

Day Nine: Yagna

The local Brahmin priests are adamant that we cannot leave Ganeshpuri without performing a yagna, a fire ceremony. Swamiji agrees and so this morning under the large banyan tree, in the grounds of Kothavala where Bhagawan once sat, a new multi-coloured tent takes life. Seven priests, some from Bhagawan’s temple and some from the Vajreshwari temple in the neighbouring village, have erected a stone yagna pit, and brought the many items needed for this complex ritual.

Santosh, the head priest for the day brings great experience and devotion to the event along with an articulate grasp of English, which made the otherwise mysterious proceedings understandable. It is a hot day but the women wear their best new saris. Even the men dress in traditional Indian attire, lungis and kurtas, marking the ceremonial significance of the day.

Gopi and Krishna are representing all of us in the ceremony and will make offerings to the fire on our behalf. They are dressed as Shiva and Shakti and, with Krishna in a hot pink dhoti, and Gopi in a beautiful turquoise and pink sari, they are radiant and seem to become the divine beings they are representing. 

The priests give us all bindis, the red dot at the third eye, and then chant opening mantras to Ganesh to remove any obstacles that may arise, and other deities for protection and success.

In the afternoon Devi Ma, the sannyas candidates and householders join Gopi and Krishna at the fire to offer ghee and other food stuff. The lighting of the fire is one of the highlights of the event and involves an ancient method in which a stick resting in a camphor wood box is vigorously pulled by a rope to elicit a spark. We were all instructed to pray to the God of fire (Agni) to ensure a quick lighting and our prayers came true as, after only a moment or two, smoke and then fire appears. As it begins to smoke, they bring it to Swamiji for his blessing and soon the fire is blazing. It is fed with camphor wood shavings and then cow dung pats until it is thoroughly alight. To the sound of mantras to Shiva and Shakti, offerings of ghee are made by participants seated around the fire.

After many hours the atmosphere in the tent is high with Shakti. Following the fire yagna, other shorter pujas take place: especially touching is when the head priest performs a Guru puja to our Swamiji. They offer him the sacred flame, wrap him in a shawl, garland him and offer him fruit. A flower is placed on his head and lights are waved. We all line up, pranam to him and receive a blessing.

Other pujas include a special chant for the householders propitiating the nine planets. Finally arati is sung as the sun sets. Everyone offers henna oil and coconuts into the flames and the ceremony ends.

Day Ten: Vajreshwari

After early morning meditation at Kailas Nivas, Swamiji does some detective work using some of the photographs of Bhagawan Nityananda that line the walls of his ashram. We begin to establish the location of the many concrete perches that we see in the images. Bhagawan’s house has an unusual interior design filled with raised concrete slabs where he lay and met people, along with many high shuttered windows. The design makes sense to us now that we are here in the heat of Ganeshpuri. Piecing together where Bhagawan sat and spoke brings this most transcendent of sages to life and, from the photographic evidence, we can see that he was physically much taller than most of us had imagined. 

After breakfast we visit Vrajeshwari, a busy little town nearby, which has a spectacular temple high on a hill that overlooks the entire valley. We climb 52 stone steps and arrive at a large paved courtyard. The temple was built in the mid 1700s in fulfilment of a pledge that the ruler Chimaji Appa had made if the Goddess helped him defeat the Portuguese. The temple is dedicated to the Goddess and the inner sanctum also has idols of Renuka and goddess Kalika. In the beautiful courtyards is another small temple built around a tree where Bhagawan Nityananda, Sai Baba of Shirdi and Baba Muktananda all came to meditate. During his sadhana with Bhagawan, Baba spent many months meditating in a small hut next to the temple. Swamiji led us into the hut where we spent some time sitting in this cool and meditative space. 

Santosh (a temple priest from Ganeshpuri who officiated at our yagna yesterday) then gives us a tour and we meet the Head Trustee, Mr Ramosh Shenoy. He invites us to climb up more stone steps to the top of the hill to see a recently built Yagna Mandap, an outdoor temple where they will hold fire ceremonies. It is beautifully designed with all the ceremonial requirements and enclosed with wire (to keep out animals). From here the expanse of the valley is even more majestic. The river Tansa winds its way peacefully across the valley, green still from the monsoon. Villagers, workers and children move across the valley attending their daily chores as the Vajreshwari Goddesses protect them from the hilltop. 

In the afternoon Yogini brings afternoon chai, samosas and other delicious Indian treats for Swamiji, Devi Ma and the Shiva Yoga devotees who are staying at her home. The group staying at Rosy’s is treated to a fantastic traditional Indian lunch seated on her kitchen floor with palm leaves for plates. 

At night we hold our regular Satsang at which more villagers and travellers arrive, including Hussain, a local businessman, and Lucette, a spry 77 year old French woman who demonstrates some spectacular asanas. Swamiji gives a talk in which he cites Baba who said, “To go on a spiritual pilgrimage you must become open to its influence”. 

Swamiji comments that when our hearts are open we can fully experience the Shakti of Ganeshpuri and, equally, when negative tendencies of the mind come over us, our hearts contract and we can feel separate. He also says, “Wherever you meditate or chant, that place becomes sacred”.

Day Eleven:  Prasad

Last night in Satsang Swamiji said, “Good acts, like giving, increase the Shakti” and today we put his words into action. The Shiva Yogis generously donate funds, as does Swami Chetanananda, to give gifts to various groups in the village. Swamiji and Devi Ma were concerned that the villagers, the children, the poor and the homeless benefit from our visit. It feels as if all previous activities have led to this day, and it is wonderful to be able to give back to the people who have treated us with so much love. 

Anne Keely, our only English pilgrim, takes the project in hand and works with Iqbal to make sure it runs like clockwork. Our first stop is the local school where, as our party enters, we see all the children seated neatly on the ground of the old stone courtyard waiting for us. The children sang Jyota se Jyota in greeting and Iqbal takes several of us to sit with them and sing. The children are amazed that we know the words to this and another chant they sing, Govinda Jaya Jaya

Swamiji gives a short speech in which he tells the children that they should never forget that they live in a very famous town and that all of us from Australia have waited a long time to visit Ganeshpuri.

He encourages them to listen to their teachers and their parents and to work hard (the teachers nod approvingly at this point). Then, having pre-sorted hundreds of bags with hair slides, pens, pencils, sweets, books and Shiva Yoga T-shirt for each child, the groups hands out the bags to the very excited children. As they file past they go into their classrooms and the teachers in the group - Mira, Gopi, Manu, Surya Dev, Patricia and Anne – teach them Australian songs to sing and talk to them. The sounds of ‘Kookaburra sits on an old oak tree’ improbably rang out of some of the rooms.

Swamiji and Devi Ma then present saris to the principal and other women teachers along with two fine cricket bats to the sports teachers. With their teachers temporarily preoccupied the kids explode into action and we are swamped as they ask us to sign their books and take photos. A teacher eventually comes out and with a quick shout restores silence. As we prepare to leave I see a sign that sums up this charming morning, “Service to man is service to God”.

After a quick lunch, we reassemble on the balcony to thank and acknowledge the hard-working staff of Kothavala who have take such great care of us. Gifts of saris, punjabi’s and money are given as Surya Dev entertains us with a local Hindi pop song – much to everyone’s amusement. Under any normal situation these two events are more than enough for one day but, it is the land of Bhagawan where everything seems to happen simultaneously and the main event is yet to happen. 

Lining up at the front gate at the road from the Ganeshpuri to Kothavala are hundreds of eager villagers. With military-like precision, Anne has us form a human chain to pass parcels of blankets, clothes and food from the balcony to the mandap where tables are being loaded. Just as the gates are about to open, Farida, the head Trustee of the Bhagawan Nityananda Temple and her associate Jeanie drop by to greet Swamiji. They pass on their good wishes for our stay on behalf of the Temple and Gurudev Siddha Peeth and give Swamiji the shawl that covered Bhagawan the night before. After their visit the pleasures of giving begin in earnest. 

Before our arrival, courtesy of Iqbal’s careful pre-planning, 400 villagers were given coupons that entitled them to collect a gift from the table. Families and friends wait impatiently for their prasad. Shy young girls, the homeless, wandering mendicants, young children and mothers with babies, farmers, brick layers and the elderly pass by. School children in their super white Shiva Ashram T-shirts boldly line up for another gift. In what seems like a very short time, everyone has their prasad along with a box of nutritious halva. Iqbal is adamant that whatever food we give is healthy. Swamiji reminisces about how Baba gave freely to the villagers. There were many afternoons at Gurudev Siddha Peeth when Baba handed out cloth, milk and tools to the community. The giving and receiving creates an atmosphere of love. It is wonderful to give something back to those who serve the Shakti in this place and we began to consider how next time we can make the event larger.

At the end most of us report exhaustion but the magic of Ganeshpuri continues and – without even trying – we sit down for a spontaneous Satsang. Swami Chidananda rides in on his motorbike in a cloud of dust, to give a shawl to Swamiji; Potia appears from nowhere to drum; Prasad from the temple comes to pay his respects and suddenly we are in the midst of a chant. Swamiji takes questions from the crowd and even persuades Surya Dev to sing his Hindi pop song again. The Temple bells ring in the background, the palm trees gently sway, and the dark night covers us like a warm blanket as the day comes to end.

Day Twelve: Pujas

Today is designated a ‘rest day’ however, I discover it is impossible to simply sit under a tree here and read. There is Guru Gita on the cool balcony of Kothawala early in the morning and then meditation at Kailas Nivas. In the front garden after breakfast we hear two talks from Shiva Yogis: Mary Donaldson gives a fascinating talk about Shivaji, the Maharashtran King and founder of the State who lived in the 17^th century; and Dey Alexander speaks on the poet-saint Kabir, who wrote the most sublime and sometimes earthy poetry.

Dilip and Ramakrishna (another ‘boy’ Swamiji knew in his days with Baba) come to visit with their families. And, at lunch time, Rosy lovingly prepares food for Swamiji, Devi and a small group.

During the day various delegations are sent out to say hello and touch base with people. Some of the villagers have been asking for copies of Swamiji’s books, of which we have very few copies. I am assigned to visit a long-time resident of Ganeshpuri, Dr Tino Faillace (a noted hydro-geologist in his 80s). Dr Tino and his wife Katarina are doing charitable work in the valley. Dr Tino said that as he was about to retire he realised that he wanted to give something back to humanity. He and Katarina visited Ganeshpuri in the 70s and loved it. They returned to work in conjunction with the villagers. They are installing clean water by sinking wells and giving financial assistance to poor families. They also subsidize the local school. When children are abandoned or tragedy strikes, the school takes them in, houses and educates them.

In the afternoon, a cricket match between India (the staff of the Pavan resort where some are staying) and Australia (Shiva Yogis) takes place with Swamiji in attendance. The result is contentious – some say it is a draw, but most say Australia wins by one point. Either way it is fun.

Satsang is a delight tonight. Santosh sings an exquisite Shiva chant full of devotion and love. Sitting there in Satsang under the setting sun with a soft breeze playing, I felt transported to a blissful state. After the chant, Swamiji says that we are here in the spiritual centre of the universe and are united in the love of Bhagawan Nityananda. Taking questions from the audience one person asks, “How do we remain open back home in the way that we are here?”. 

Swamiji replies that this is the meditators problem but, if we are centred in the Self, externals will affect us less. He also says that Bhagawan is a great model of someone who is impervious to negative forces. Baba too always said, “Keep your asana, no matter what”. 

Swamiji continues his wise counsel: “Don’t make decisions about your life for a while. Let yourself come to the ground again”. He also advises us to, “Make the Self your main priority – don’t give the Self up for other things. This is the number one priority of yoga in the world”.

Day Thirteen: One Last Ganeshpuri Satsang

It is our final day in Ganeshpuri and in retrospect it would be hard to imagine a more perfect end to our stay. 

We begin at 7:00am with our final Guru Gita on the Kothavala balcony then walk with the cows and the goats on the dusty little road that leads to Kailas Nivas to meditate one last time in the place where our Bhagawan lived and taught. Our friend, the manager, bids us all goodbye and we return for breakfast. 

Two short talks were then held under the trees: Patricia speaks on the great Maharashtran poet saint Tukaram Maharaj and Jo finishes our Ganeshpuri series in the best possible way, with a talk on the life of Bhagawan Nityananda. In the morning too, we say goodbye to the group who are returning to Australia and we all began the grieving process as we feel the end of our stay in Ganeshpuri looming.

During the day small groups walk along the path behind Kothavala to the Temple priest’s home where Prasad is holding personal pujas to bring us good fortune in our lives back in Australia. As he was performing mine I feel Bhagawan’s presence and the Shakti fills the house. I leave content, knowing that I have received Bhagawan’s full blessing. 

At 3pm we pile into cars and head to Baba’s Mahasamadhi shrine for a farewell. We then return to the temple grounds around Bhagawan’s shrine as Ishwari makes a short video of Swamiji and Ma Devi walking around the shops.

Later in the evening it is our final Satsang with over 200 of our Ganeshpuri friends. It is an occasion full of love and happiness, and the poignancy of departure. Garlands are given many times over to Swamiji and Devi Ma. Some of the staff receive saris in recognition of their hard and devoted work in helping make this trip happen. Iqbal, Moti, Yusuf and Aysez are justly celebrated for all their extraordinary work with some performances in their honour: Surya Dev sang an exquisite Italian aria that made many of us cry and Vani and Jo perform a fantastic Bollywood dance number that has the crowd clap and laugh. Books are presented; prasad handed out and, in return, many gifts are given. One totally charming gift comes from the cooks who hand over a tray of turmeric into which is etched words encouraging Swamiji to return “before one year as we will miss you too much”. Potia drums his final Hare Ram.

Swamiji gives a moving final speech in which he calls for unity in our tradition. He says that no matter what had transpired we are all the grand-children of Sri Bhagawan Nityananda and our path is a great and Shakti filled one.

With 8pm approaching and the nightly arati almost reaching its final moments, we quickly walk to Bhagawan’s shrine. As we move past the small crowd that lines the streets near the temple they must have sensed our mood because many of the locals yell, “Sadgurunath maharaj ki jay! Bhagawan ki jay!” .
 

Just as we enter the temple, the great booming drum that signals the climactic moment of the event resounds. I can feel Bhagawan smiling on us.

Day Fourteen: Travel to Kankhal

Two weeks in India have sped by, and today at 5am, we gather at Kothavala for our final breakfast. After Rosy and her family perform a tearful and loving arati to Swamiji and Devi Ma, the 30 or so who are bound for Haridwar board the buses amid sad goodbyes to the rest who are either returning to Australia or continuing their travels in India. 

Most of us are weeping as we pass Kailas Nivas with the manager standing in the doorway waving goodbye; past the little shops full of colour and divine Shakti; past the piercing eyes of the Devi statue; up the hill past Yogini’s and Rosy’s; past Gurudev Siddha Peeth and away from this enchanted place. 

As we travel out of the valley toward the freeway I begin to notice a change of feeling in me. As I leave this magical place of enlivened consciousness and bliss, I am aware that during my time here I have become Bhagawan’s child. In the moment, however, I am heartbroken as the ‘real’ world calls. I bid a tearful farewell, consoled by the knowledge that that the small dusty village of Ganeshpuri is my spiritual home and will always be waiting for me.

The trip to Mumbai airport is painfully slow. An overturned lorry has spilled oil all over the road. Our bus veers alarmingly in the slick into the oncoming traffic. There are murmurings from the back of the bus as some begin to wonder if we are going to make it through the traffic and delays to our airflight. As if reading our thoughts, Iqbal calls and says, “Just say the mantra and it will all be fine,” and somehow it is. At check in we are horrified to discover that we are 300K overweight. Again, Iqbal weaves his magic and gets our excess luggage onto the flight to Delhi for next to nothing.

Iqbal accompanies us to Delhi, organising our transportation from Delhi airport to Kankhal and bidding us a poignant farewell amid our pleas for his company on the rest of our journey. Unfortunately, work and the ‘real’ world are calling him also and we part ways.

Soon we are leaving the city for the 200km trip to Haridwar at the foothills of the Himalayas in the state of Uttar Pradesh. At first it seems that we are making good progress, but Swamiji’s 35-year old memories of a deserted little road in 1970 have clearly altered with modern realities. The traffic is intense and the driving rules, (big rules over small) or lack thereof, see some harrowing overtaking and sudden detours off the road. Soon, I am sorry I decided to overcome car sickness by sitting in the front seat as most of the time I have to close my eyes. However, we do see some amazing sights during the 10 hour trip; most notably, a man cooking dinner on an open fire on his car dashboard; a funeral party walking with the dead body of their relative on a stretcher; and several alarming crashes. Surya Dev keeps the ‘bus wallahs’ in remarkably good spirits with his rendition of show tunes and some flamboyant tap dancing. After many hours, we stop to meet Swamiji and Devi Ma at a roadhouse where we launch into atypical Indian fare of pizza and chips.

After this long, arduous journey we finally pull in to the marble courtyard outside the Addya Shakti Mahakali Ashram in Kankhal where we are greeted by Swami Aparoxananda who has graciously organised our stay here. The ashram is beautiful. It was built by the Malaysian-born lawyer and Mahant Mahadevi (known also as Madam) for her Guru (Maharaji) Acharya Mahamandaleshwar Swami Rasananda. Even though Madame is a spiritual figure, her Guru told her not to give up practicing law. Neither Madam nor Maharaji are there as they are returning from Myanmar where Madam has been working on a civil law case.

Nevertheless, we are royally greeted by ashramites, several drummers and a wild flurry of bindis, garlands and waving lights. After a short welcome we walk across the ashram and out through another marble courtyard, past a spectacular marble temple and down some stairs to the bank of Mother Ganges. On the opposite side we can make out a park which, we are assured, has elephants and deer grazing. After chai we find our rooms and, after a hot bucket of water is brought to each room, we bathe and finally go to sleep.

Day Fifteen: The Land of the Vedas

I rise later than usual and as I wake here, in the land of the Vedas, I am aware that my energy and feeling are different from Ganeshpuri. I soon discover there are Vedic and Brahmin protocols here, with a formality and discipline according to those traditions. The women are encouraged not to venture outside without a male chaperone. After breakfast eaten sitting on the floor of a large dining room near the temple, we make our Satsang space in a small room off the main building. As we gather, I am relieved to hear that I am not the only one grieving Ganeshpuri. It is only when we chant Om Namo Bhagavate Nityanandaya that the pain in my heart shifts slightly. 

This morning we settle in but in the afternoon, in a spirit of exploration, Swamiji and whoever happens to be around drive into Haridwar town to Surat Giri Bungalow, the Ashram of the late Swami Brahmananda, his sannyas Guru. It is now headed by Swami Vishveshwarananda, who visited Mount Eliza during the ‘Power of Three’ in Melbourne some years ago. Although Swami Vishveshwarananda is not here, we are given a tour of the grounds and buildings and some of its history.

Built over 400 years ago, it was originally a small bungalow, a place of meditation and sadhana for a lone sadhu name Surat Giri. Gradually, other seekers joined him. Over the years it has grown into the largest Ashram in Haridwar. Thousands of yogis have studied and practiced yoga here and now it is one of India’s most renowned learning centres for Vedic studies.

The buildings are beautiful and mirror their long lives, roughened by the harsh winter climate. The gardens seem to echo ancient mantras. The Ganges is pristine and flows powerfully here. She too, is worshipped as a living Goddess. It is easy to believe the myths of Her power and blessings; one dip in Her cold strong water and liberation is guaranteed; one sip and illness passes away. For these reasons, millions of pilgrims come from all over India to bathe and drink Her nourishment.

The Ganges sweeps away the offerings of priests and pilgrims. Garlands, body parts, dead animals, flowers, and, plastic bags stream by. Shiva’s power of dissolution is strong and there is little room for sentiment. Life and death are played out on the streets. It is impossible to turn away or hide from the suffering of others. Old age, illness and death are visible. Survival is a constant battle and if sadhana is not embraced, the lure of chronic despair is tempting. The ancient sages have prayed, meditated, practiced austerities, suffered and attained here. Thankfully, the subtle vibration of their sadhana has crept into every inch of space.

As we walk toward the gate an elderly woman runs up to us. She speaks Hindi but the emotion in her words is communicated. She seems to be saying how much she misses Swami Brahmananda, how much he gave her and how sad she is that he has passed away. The ashram is quiet and does seem to resonate with the loss of his physical presence.

Baba used to say, “The Guru is a divine principle, not a person, not a body. Don’t be attached to the physical form.” Yet the play between Guru and disciple is perhaps one of the most joyful and rewarding. Once made, the connection is almost impossible to break. In this extraordinary relationship there is the potential for self-realisation, ecstasy, divine love, intense burning and longing and, finally, liberation. Therefore, for those devoted to the Guru’s work, well-being and teachings, the loss can be overwhelming. This woman’s grief is a reminder that all things pass and, even though we may strive to understand that the Guru is a principle and is alive as the Shakti, it is hard not to be attached to the company of the Guru, a most wonderful and sacred gift.

Haridwar is the city of Ashrams. Every few steps there are either ancient or new ones announcing the possibility of sadhana. The streets are full of Swamis from every tradition. As we walk we look for Basti Ram Parsel, the place where Swamiji did sadhana in the winter of 1970. Swamiji gleefully points out the building, now a private home.

We return to the Ashram and over lunch Swami Sharad Puri visits and mentions that he has heard that Hari Dass Baba is actually in Haridwar. Normally he would be at his Ashram in Mount Madonna, California, where he is based. He says that he will call the Ashram and see if he is there.

Swamiji’s good friend Ram, a long time Baba devotee who did sadhana in Ganeshpuri in the early 70s, joins us for a week. He has come to India on retreat to re-vitalise his spiritual practice, eager for the company of fellow seekers. He and Swamiji laugh and joke about their “days in the boys’ dorm” when they had only a mattress on the floor and two or three hooks for clothes. The third hook became the focus of intense tapasya as they covertly fought over it.

Swamiji shares how he managed his days there. Early on, he understood that if he wanted to be with Baba for many years he had to create a space in which he could be himself. And so, in order to relieve the tension of close living, no personal space and the fire of sadhana, he escaped to the chai shop across the street or to Mumbai for a little rest and relaxation. These breaks gave him breathing room.

Today we do seva. The Ashram is three storeys, with many meeting rooms and bedrooms. There is a small staff here, most of whom spend their days studying. There is a buzz of activity as we clean the dining hall, the marble courtyard, the temple and our rooms. The Ashramites are amazed by our enthusiasm for work and abundant energy. They are pleased and grateful that we pitch in without complaint. The halls, corridors and courtyards are soon sparkling.

In the evening we chant the Shiva Arati in the beautiful temple that overlooks the Ganges. The quiet of Haridwar is eerie after the clanging of Ganeshpuri. Afterwards we adjourn to chant before bed.

Day Sixteen: Hari Dass Baba

After morning meditation and Guru Gita, Devi Ma addresses the difficult transition from the Ganeshpuri experience to the Haridwar experience. She says that, in a way, we are on a reverse pilgrimage of Swamiji’s search for a Guru. His seeking began in Haridwar with Hari Dass Baba and ended when he stepped through the doors of Baba’s Ashram in Ganeshpuri. We are revisiting the places that inspired Swamiji to find a Guru and practice sadhana. However, our pilgrimage began in Ganeshpuri and will end in this fiery land of yoga.

It is still the quiet time of year in Haridwar. Soon, this will change as pilgrims arrive from all over the world. The hundreds of Ashrams that line the streets will fill with people on ‘spiritual vacations’. They will study, do mantra practice and meditate. They will bathe in the Ganges, do rituals and pujas and plead with Lord Shiva to bestow his blessings. Now though, the streets are easy to navigate and the main places of pilgrimage are accessible.

This morning we go on a walking tour to the centre of Kankhal. As we stroll down the tiny lanes, Swamiji excitedly points out where he bought milk in the early morning, the tea shop whe